After and before starter motor testing, it’s easy when you have the tools
On CX5s and other Mazda’s with the i-stop system, i-stop may not activate after the battery has been replaced or was disconnected during some servicing.
In this case you will either need to ask your dealer to reset it, which they can by connecting up to the diagnostic system, or you can do it yourself.
- Warm up the engine. Turn everything electrical off that you can – radio, A/C etc so there is no/minimal electrical load.
- Switch the ignition off.
- Switch ignition to on but dont start engine. Long-press the i-stop OFF switch for 3 s within 5 s after switching the ignition ON.
- Start the engine.
- Press the i-stop OFF switch. Verify that the i-stop indicator light (green) flashes and stays flashing. If it does not flash, go back to Step 3.
- Allow the engine to idle for 10 minutes, or until the i-stop indicator light (green) turns off. Mine didnt stop flashing so after 10 minutes or so i just went to step 7.
- Switch the engine off. Wait a minute or two.
- Start the engine. Go for a drive, and check that the i-stop system operates normally. Those with i-stop will know that you may need to drive a mile or two until it activates. Remember that i-stop will not operate when (a) diesel engines are in regen mode, and (b) in some other conditions – see your manual for details. Also, if a new battery was fitted, it may take some time for the new battery to fully charge up before i-stop will start working. Go for a decent drive so it gets fully charged.
- If i-stop operates as normal, you have successfully reset it.
This does work, but the battery needs to be fully charged for the I-stop light to come back on green
D40 clutch firewall re-enforcement plate.
2 cars in the same week have been brought to us to repair the firewall due to clutch pedal box cracking apart and the firewall cracking, surely this is a common issue so we spent a little time on the internet looking for a repair procedure and came up with nothing, so during the first repair the decision was made to 3d model the part and upload it so next time it happens there is any easy way to find the fabricated plate, and also to show the issues that are effected with the vehicle.
The fuel filter that is front of the clutch master cylinder has to be removed and lines blocked/capped off.
After removing the clutch master cylinder and linkages from the pedal box we inspected the bushes ok on the first one the second pedal box the bushes where worn and new bushes installed.
both pedal boxes where slightly different the stronger pedal box being the older navara, the newer 2010 model they had made it lighter with less steel so this one cracked with less of a heavy clutch pedal feel.
now for the firewall, cracks in the firewall where bad so the plate will cover the cracks they can be welded and ground back but it is very hard to get access to grind back so the plate was installed and welded around the outside so when the pedal box and plate with master cylinder are installed the firewall has no flex as it is sandwiched between both parts and made more rigid in doing so.
Plate drawing pdf download
With all this said and done, replace the clutch when it starts to feel heavy and this cracking of the firewall and the pedal box will not happen.
Hyundai gets, hard starting intermittently.
The vehicle with low kms and always kept in top working order.
After careful inspection, battery testing and load testing the battery, nothing could be found.
Instead we thought of trying a different approach than using electronics to tell us what was wrong.
In the end nothing compares to visual inspections.
Starter motor main cable loose…..
Nothing more to explain #pictureworthathousandwords
Hyundai Elantra 2011 with ABS/ESP and EPS.