X-tool carried out bcm read for pin code
Used can type 2 to program remote and transponder worked at same time, must program all keys at the same time other wise Un programmed keys will not work
Looks like NAVARA d40 key
This is the third Mazda bt50. 2016 model they either come in with tray back style combination rear lamps where the bayonet spring loaded center terminal melts and the bulb does not get any power to the bulb (replacement) tail lamp assembly needed
Or the bcm/ fuse box in the drovers compartment stops powering the brake light the bcm seams to power it for a second and then shuts down,
In the past I have done current tests etc, and nothing found all these vehicles have used different trailers on and off ( can’t find faults in trailer either)
So now I just use a relay and fuse block to use right side brake light as the switch for the relay and use a add a fuse from ignition switch on circuit
There is purple wires to supply the left and right brake lights and a yellow wire for the center brake light ( don’t use this on) cut the left purple and tap into the right purple wire as the switch and done
Round 2. This week for the fault code P0016 this time on a F18D4 Holden Cruze, the vehicle came in with lack of power and struggled to idle,
with low manifold vacuum sitting at 17 InHg normal we see these engines with 20-21 InHg so that being that the fault codes relate to intake cam and low vacuum,
The fault code could be cleared when engine off and ignition on, but when key on engine on the fault could would clear but came straight back on, this gave the knowledge that when engine at idle the counters for crank to cam sync was out, and not anything else to do with variable cam oil solenoids, as they are not active at idle.
The first port of call was to see what the engine ecu is seeing a scope trace and a previous recorded trace on a known good engine was checked
The above picture shows the intake cam is very retarded in the second picture compared to the first, the engine will be pulled apart to work out the issue, our suspicion is the the cam phaser is stuck and will not move back into the lock position
We will update with the conclusion when vehicle finished
Normally when testing the performance on a Diesel engine with lack of power a boost leak would be found or a cracked intercooler, this vehicle has amassed 500,000kms and had never been cracked open servicing had been conducted by us since the word go, full synthetic 5/40 engine oil, upper cylinder cleans every service and no catch can present, here is some photos after 500,000kms
The vehicle now has full performance back to the engine and client now happy injectors and fuel supply is still in perfect condition after 500,000kms
Intake ports into the cylinder head (the not so good side)
After all said and done the vehicle had done extremely well
VehicleHolden Captiva series 2, 2011, 2.4L 4 cylinder engine.
SymptomVehicle came in with check engine light on and complaint was, that the engine was shaking when idling after going for a drive, he left the vehicle sit over night at home drove the next day and no issues after leaving it over night.
Being that the engine light was on the instrument cluster we connected the scan tool and conducted a test drive.
Normally the first thing you think of is the chains are worn out, but we have another story for you!
We digested the fault codes in and really thought about what is was trying to say, with both fault codes present there had to be a connection with the rough idle, as per the client complaint. If the oil pressure can’t get the the cam phasers they could stick or not move freely, so to start with the oil control valves were removed and checked to see what’s going on, knowing the service history was less than desirable,
after seeing P0011 & metals in the filter for the valves, we knew what had to be done in order to put this back into service we had to further investigate the main oil filter and change engine oil as a minimum before we could asses the damaged caused from lack of oil changes.
Carried out an extended oil drain, 1hour till metals not coming out, oil filter canister cleaned and new filter installed,
Some reading this here may laugh, I’m a funny guy but the engine comes out with 5w30 engine oil (don’t ever put it in there) we have gone up to 15w40 added in a wynns additive, started engine timing chain rattle gone, variable cam phaser rattle gone under load, so much for all your light weight oils that protect the engine.
Needs a test drive to check sound after engine oil temp is up and this will determine what we are going to do next, but there is only three options (forth added as I’m a funny guy)
- Wait to see what happens over the next 1000kms.
- remove timing cover and sump to carry it full inspection, report and possibly replace timing chains and guides,
- Replace the motor
- Sell the car and make it someone else’s problem.
Just trying to help out other guys in the industry, before calling for a new motor.
Air con not cold when outside temps are over 28degs
Vehicle came in with air conditioning not working very well, and we felt this to be true, had heard about the blend door motor faults, leaks in refridgerant system at the evaporator, drivers side hot and passengers side cold, list goes on with the issues.
Setup the manifold gauges to see what is going on off the scales. So the high pressure was way over normal, fans are full ball
we thought it be best to remove the gas and see how much gas was extracted with scales 310grams – the system takes 650 grams so only half full, so there had to be a leak, and we know the system uses a control valve, maybe making the compressor over work for the condition of the day,
We thought to try evacuating the system and try refilling with fresh supply just in case. Refill ing to correct gram weight made the system work correctly, ———- got the system half full , decided to check with scan tool if any faults, existed, had various faults in engine system for misfiring faults, found the vehicle has been fitted with launch control which cuts of the spark, after 350 grams of r134a
found the system is still the same but marginally better, got out the heat gun with screen and found that the inlet into condenser was 80 deg and out let is 30deg,
There was no hot or cold saturation points in the con sensor core for us to suspect that the condenser was partially blocked
So our suspect is the the tx valve isn’t letting the correct flow of gas through to evaporator genes the condenser temp difference of 50 between inlet and out let usually would expect to see 15-20 deg difference max ————///-
Nice and tight to get access make sure you use the guy with the smallest hand to carry out the work
After sealing up with new seals and vac’ing the system for 35 mins time to put the gas back in
With 680grans of r134a and system set to low and face
Ambient of the day 32 degrees C
Vent outlet temp of 6 and compressor cycling on and off to let me know the evaporator temp was low enough
Pack up the gear and refit the port caps job done!!
On CX5s and other Mazda’s with the i-stop system, i-stop may not activate after the battery has been replaced or was disconnected during some servicing.
In this case you will either need to ask your dealer to reset it, which they can by connecting up to the diagnostic system, or you can do it yourself. listed belowRead More
D40 clutch firewall re-enforcement plate.
2 cars in the same week have been brought to us to repair the firewall due to clutch pedal box cracking apart and the firewall cracking, surely this is a common issue so we spent a little time on the internet looking for a repair procedure and came up with nothing, so during the first repair the decision was made to 3d model the part and upload it so next time it happens there is any easy way to find the fabricated plate, and also to show the issues that are effected with the vehicle.
The fuel filter that is front of the clutch master cylinder has to be removed and lines blocked/capped off.
After removing the clutch master cylinder and linkages from the pedal box we inspected the bushes ok on the first one the second pedal box the bushes where worn and new bushes installed.
both pedal boxes where slightly different the stronger pedal box being the older navara, the newer 2010 model they had made it lighter with less steel so this one cracked with less of a heavy clutch pedal feel.
now for the firewall, cracks in the firewall where bad so the plate will cover the cracks they can be welded and ground back but it is very hard to get access to grind back so the plate was installed and welded around the outside so when the pedal box and plate with master cylinder are installed the firewall has no flex as it is sandwiched between both parts and made more rigid in doing so.
Plate drawing pdf download
With all this said and done, replace the clutch when it starts to feel heavy and this cracking of the firewall and the pedal box will not happen.
To reset the timing belt indicator without Multi Information Screen (2013 on), proceed as follows:
Turn on the ignition.
Adjust the display so that it is showing the TRIP B reading. (See Diagrams)
Turn off the ignition.
Press and hold the trip meter button and turn on the ignition.
Continue to hold the trip meter button for 5 seconds or more ensuring that the timing belt warning light is flashing.
Release the trip meter button then within 5 seconds press it once.
You now have 5 seconds to select the interval to the next timing belt change. turn the trip meter button to advance through the interval options.
Note: the interval options will be a two digit number representing the kilometres multiplied by 10,000 eg: 15 = 150,000 Km’s
Or if not changing the interval hold the trip meter button for 5 seconds or more.
The display returns to the Odometer reading and the Timing Belt light will turn off
To reset the Timing Belt reminder message without the Multi Information Screen.
Switch the ignition ON and set the TRIP meter RESET knob (located on the lower right hand side of the cluster) to display the Odometer reading (not the trip meter reading) and then turn the ignition OFF.
Press and hold the TRIP meter RESET knob and turn the ignition ON.
Press and hold the TRIP meter RESET knob for a further 5 seconds, release it and then hold it in again within 5 seconds.
Enter into the SETTING MODE and change to T-BELT DISPLAY MODE.
Press and hold the TRIP meter RESET knob for a further 5 seconds.
The display now changes to TRIP B and the warning light turns off indicating reset procedure is complete.
Release the knob and turn ignition to OFF.
Hyundai Elantra 2011 with ABS/ESP and EPS.